Jump to content

Custom Search





Welcome to the Ford Flex Forum


Sign In  Log in with Facebook

Create Account
Welcome to the Ford Flex Forum. Like most online communities, you must register to create topics or post in our community - but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be a part of the Ford Flex Forum by signing in or creating an account.
  • Start new topics and reply to others
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
  • Get your own profile page and make new friends
  • Send personal messages to other members
  • Create a photo album and post photos. . .more!
Click here to create an account
 
Guest Message by DevFuse

Feel Faster?  We're Now on a Dedicated Server!


Photo
- - - - -

2013 Ecoboost Limited Tow package install, OEM


  • Please log in to reply
20 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   ACDII

ACDII

    New Flex Member

  • Ford Flex Members
  • 328 posts
  • Region:Decline

Posted 23 April 2013 - 07:54 AM

Starting a new install and will have everything except the sway control installed, so it will be an ALMOST factory tow install. I started today, and have to get the parts ordered to get it all installed. 

Today I got the power from the battery through to the interior, so the hard part is done. The next step once I pickup the trailer brake controller, trailer light isolation kit, hitch, and contemplating whether to purchase the 2013 bumper wiring harness, or take the one I bought for the 2010 that had the wrong sensor plugs and take the trailer wiring from that and just splice it in. 

Since the electrical components for the tow package are not installed, there is a 100% chance the wires coming from the plug under the dash for the brake controller are going nowhere, I will be hard wiring the controller to the 7 pin socket in the rear. This will require running a 12V power feed for the trailer break away battery charging/aux power circuit, a brake feed, and a ground. I will also need the power feed for the light isolation module. 

Today the wiring is in for the first part, a 10 Gauge wire, with a fuse at the battery, and two more fuse holders inside under the dash.

15053_532999580075514_1512227034_n.jpg

So for starters, I pulled the wipers off, then the cowling pieces. To remove these, first pop the caps off the wipers, and use a 15 MM socket to remove the nuts. Take a dead blow plastic mallet and smack the stud while lifting lightly on the wiper arm. Should pop off in a smack or two. Then remove the 6 plastic hold down snaps with a removal tool, and dont drop them, or you might not find them. The cover is secured with foam tape so it may stick. Lift up on the forward edge and loosen it. Then on either side the end caps are secured with 3 hook. Starting from the windshield, pull up and wiggle until they detach, then pull them to the side. Reach under the cowl cover and push on each clip holding it down by the windshield and they will pop out. The cover has the washer fluid hose attached, you can leave in on, and just mve the cover to the side. 

Next step, there is a metal clip on the side. you can see it in the picture. Remove that and the second cowl piece pops right off. Now that these covers are off, look down into the cowl and you will see a large round rubber cover, this is where the main wiring harness enters the car. I took a utility knife and poked an X through it, and fed a mechanics wire down and at an angle until I could see it behind the brake pedal. Then wrapped it around the 10 Gauge wire and pulled it through. Once I had enough wire to play with, then I took some black shrink tubing, and shrunk it on the exposed wire to hide the red color, strapped it to the main harness, and put a piece of wire wrap on the wire, with more heat shrink, fed it through a hole I drilled through the lower cowl, and reassembled everything. Using more heat shrink and the fuse holder that comes with the brake controller installation kit, finished the install, tying it down to the battery cables. 

Under the dash I took two more fuse holders, crimped then to a 10 Gauge connector and crimped that to the 10 Gauge wire I ran, and used more heat shrink to clean it up, and with a few cable ties attached them to the parking brake cable and wiring harness for a clean install. 

Once I get the isolation module, I will get that installed and get more pics. 

This next part is more complicated, but easier to do since its straight forward. It requires removing all the trim and rear interior quarters on both sides, along with the rear bumper.

 

Someone had mentioned the EB Tow package has a larger radiator, so I checked with the parts department, and sure enough, it does list two radiators for the Ecoboost Flex, with and without tow. So if you plan to do some ClassIII towing, its an additional $650 plus labor to have it installed. Or use a Scangauge II and monitor your temps while towing to be safe. 

 

Here are the part numbers for the factory parts. 

Hitch, 8Z-19D520-D 
Bumper harness, 8Z-15K868-H 
7 Pin socket, 3Z-14489-BA 
Trailer light isolation Module, 4Z-15A416-A 

The above is about $460 with shipping.

 

I ordered the parts last night, so I should be able to get the rest installed this weekend, weather looks promising too. 


Edited by ACDII, 23 April 2013 - 07:58 AM.

  • robertlane likes this

#2 OFFLINE   Betty2

Betty2

    New Flex Member

  • Ford Flex Members
  • 11 posts
  • Region:U.S. Southern Plains
  • Location:Texas
  • Current Vehicle:2013 Limited

Posted 26 April 2013 - 05:53 PM

WOW  what a job! That's my first thought. Then, I grone for not holding out for the factory towing package. A week ago we bought a pre-certified 2013 Limited FWD with the std TIVCT 3.5 V6. ....so i need to get the oil cooler, huh? We'll pull a 19' double axel aluminnum frame camper...3,560 lbs, so with gear it will be near that 4500 max rating. My local Ford parts guy printed the build sheet for my VIN. It states that it is "Less Power Distribution Box-Front". I assume that means a factory wire harness won't just "plug up" and that I'll have to do what you're doing. However, It lists the 7 separate wiring harneses. Anyway to ID their purpose ?...talk about details !  Actually, I am hoping a tech at a nearby Ford dealer has done this.



#3 OFFLINE   ACDII

ACDII

    New Flex Member

  • Ford Flex Members
  • 328 posts
  • Region:Decline

Posted 27 April 2013 - 05:09 AM

There are many ways to wire in aftermarket trailer power, you just have to be careful in that you dont pull power from the tail lights to feed the trailer, or your turn signals wont work properly or worse, damage something.  I got all my parts last night, and got started, pics to come as soon as I get them uploaded.

 

I started by pulling the tail lights, and bumper off, then swapped out the wire harness in the cover to the one with the trailer connections, took all of 5 minutes to swap cables. I then pulled off the internal bumper and installed the hitch. One thing to be watchful of, even though these are packed fairly well, they still are heavy and get bounced around, the ends that attach underneath above the mufflers tend to get bent, so make sure its level of you will have a hard time getting the hitch over the top studs.

 

Next step is the wiring, and the isolation module, which is called "Kit Trailer Hitch Electric" does not come with instructions. Apparently its a universal kit for several models, so it would require a rather large manual for the instructions. There is a link to download the PDF, but guess what, it requires a login. Back when I did the 2010 I was able to download the manual from Partscheap, but looks like that is no longer the case, so back to the dealer I go to get the manual.

 

As for the NA Flex, the oil cooler parts can all be obtained from the dealer, and they can install it too. I would not go with an aftermarket hitch though when you will be pulling the type of trailer you mentioned only because of the way these are installed. The OEM hitch attaches with 10 bolts and is integrated into the bumper, aftermarkets tend to only bolt underneath with 6 bolts. They also hang lower than OEM which makes hooking up a weight distribution hitch, which you will need for that trailer, more difficult and can also cause it to strike the ground. They tend to be at least 4" lower than factory.

 

I will post up the pics later, showing all the parts and key points of the install.  Right now, need to head over to the dealer and get the instructions.



#4 OFFLINE   ACDII

ACDII

    New Flex Member

  • Ford Flex Members
  • 328 posts
  • Region:Decline

Posted 27 April 2013 - 11:41 AM

OK Guys and Gals, I wasted my time and money, so hopefully you wont have to. Hope y'all appreciate it to.

 

Apparently the 2013 models are wired from the factory for the trailer lighting, and 12v+ auxiliary power feed. All you need is the harness for the bumper, and socket for the 7 Pin.  I went and ran all the 12 gauge cables, 4 of them, the power for the module, blue, whit and black for the brake controller, and attached the module to a very nice spot so it was out of the way yet easy to access.  Put the bumper back together after noting all the wire colors for the hitch, then just for the heck of it, connected my test light up and turned on the parking lights and 4 way flashers, and what do you know, the 4 pin socket was working, then I checked the 7 pin and it was working too. I then started up the car and found the 12v+ was also working. The only thing I havent tested is the brake controller because I dont have one yet, and the dealer doesn't have a part number for the harness, so I have to find one for it. If anything I may just need to supply 12v+ for the brake controller, but who knows, maybe that is even working.  So I have a module back there I dont need, and cant return since its already installed, it uses a foam tape pad to attach it, and it is stuck good. I have 3 12 gauge wires from the dash to the rear also that I may not need.

 

Surprise!

 

So I went out to my barn, backed up to the horse trailer and plugged it in. Everything worked, now to go locate a brake controller and harness, if I cant find one around here, will just need to order one.



#5 OFFLINE   Betty2

Betty2

    New Flex Member

  • Ford Flex Members
  • 11 posts
  • Region:U.S. Southern Plains
  • Location:Texas
  • Current Vehicle:2013 Limited

Posted 28 April 2013 - 05:41 AM

I certainly appreciate you blazing the trail ! I haven't felt so bold to mess with "Mama's car". My days are past blazing the trail ...on a '76 Mustang Cobra restoration retro-mod build. Sold it to buy the camper ! So, you think ALL the 2013 models, not just the EcoBoost, is wired for the trailer harness? Was it necessary to do the "under-the-hood wire work" ? Wasn't sure when I read thru your comment there.  I figured I would need the Ford hitch, and mine will arrive Monday. And as of yesterday, our trailer guy has a WD hitch picked out for our flex / trailer app. And I'll order the oil cooler too. ....what's your experience with air filters ? Would you switch to a K&N  or an Amsoil Ea Nano fiber ?...both drop in repalcements, no extra mods needed with either one. 



#6 OFFLINE   ACDII

ACDII

    New Flex Member

  • Ford Flex Members
  • 328 posts
  • Region:Decline

Posted 29 April 2013 - 08:54 AM

Well, unsure if ALL Flex are wired for the trailer, but the proper harness is not that expensive, and if it works will save a LOT of time as no additional wiring, including bringing power in from the battery, will be needed.  

 

So in about 90 minutes you can install the OEM hitch, wiring harness and be ready for the trailer if all the wiring is in place.  Mine is an Ecoboost Limited Titanium, so not sure if all models have it, maybe all Limited do, maybe just the Ecoboost do, only way to know for sure is to plug in and see.   If you take off the bumper cover, you could unplug the harness, and use a test light on the white wire on the car side plug, and with ignition on, if you see power, chances are its going to work, that white wire, one of the 4 on the outside corners is the 12V + for the trailer 7 Pin.  There is a brown, grey and yellow wire too that are for the lights, 

 

As far as the filters  I had bad experience with K&N, and would never use one on a Turbo ever.  Don't know about Amsoil though, would need to see dust tests on it before using one.  Replacing the stock filter really doesn't gain anything, it may sound like it does, but thats only because you can hear the air intake louder, which right there tells you it isn't filtering as well.  I used a K&N in an Explorer once, and when I went to do a tune I found the entire intake tube coated with a fine dust, where previously it was spotless.  They don't filter well until they actually get dirty. 



#7 OFFLINE   ACDII

ACDII

    New Flex Member

  • Ford Flex Members
  • 328 posts
  • Region:Decline

Posted 01 May 2013 - 03:13 PM

One more test to do. The controller and harness arrived today, but the Hopkins plugs doesnt fit the Drawtite pluge, so I have to splice them together. No big deal, but I did plug the harness in under the dash.  Not surprised however to find 12V + on the black wire, and 12V switched on the red brake wire when stepping on the brake, which means there is a very good chance no additional wiring will be needed at all. 

 

Now the real question, is the sway control activated by hitching up a trailer to the 7 PIN like it was in the F150?  I will find out this weekend.

 

So if anyone is deciding to add towing, try this first with the rear bumper harness, its really easy to do, just remove the bumper cover and unplug the harness. The wires for 12V and lights are easy to find, the 12V iw white on one of the 4 outer connections, then locate the brown, yellow and gray wires, they are the left and right and parking lights. With a good grounded test light, turn on the four way flashers and probe those wires, also probe the white, if you get the light on, then all you need is the rear harness, 7pin connector and OEM hitch, and should take no more than 2 hours tops to install.



#8 OFFLINE   Betty2

Betty2

    New Flex Member

  • Ford Flex Members
  • 11 posts
  • Region:U.S. Southern Plains
  • Location:Texas
  • Current Vehicle:2013 Limited

Posted 01 May 2013 - 06:08 PM

My parts arrived today for the 2013 Limited (non-Ecoboost). Pics of hitch with 6 bolts & black receiver trimm , red wire to run from the battery, & wire harness, with the 7 pt. plug/ 4 plug flat convertor.....which was a miss-order. I was expecting to get the 7 pt. receiver. I was pleased to see a mounting bracket for the 7 pt.  This hitch looks nothing like the after market and I can see how it will fit up tight. Glad I got it. Price was $300 and worth it.

Attached Files



#9 OFFLINE   ACDII

ACDII

    New Flex Member

  • Ford Flex Members
  • 328 posts
  • Region:Decline

Posted 02 May 2013 - 05:11 PM

They go on pretty easy too. You might want to check the harness for the bunper and see if you have power, if so you wont need the module, just the bumper harness. I got my brake controller installed today, worked out of the box, so now i have all these extra wires I ran that I dont need.



#10 OFFLINE   ACDII

ACDII

    New Flex Member

  • Ford Flex Members
  • 328 posts
  • Region:Decline

Posted 06 May 2013 - 06:23 PM

It all works!  Hitched the horse trailer up tonight, lights and brakes all work perfectly.  Now to pull the WD hitch apart and set the height correctly so it isnt dragging on the ground and the spring bars are level.



#11 OFFLINE   Betty2

Betty2

    New Flex Member

  • Ford Flex Members
  • 11 posts
  • Region:U.S. Southern Plains
  • Location:Texas
  • Current Vehicle:2013 Limited

Posted 07 May 2013 - 06:58 PM

Glad to hear your hitch worked out. Today we (mostly the installer) got ours installed too. Many thanks to you for blazing the trail, we were able to install the factory hitch 9A8Z-19D520-D, the harness with the 4 plug & the 7 pin configurations DA8Z-15K868-H and the 7 pin connector XL3Z-14489-BA. Those were the only 3 parts needed. I really appreciate your post late last week explaining your out come.  I was able to return the other parts you originally listed at the beginning of this topic. The only issue to work around was the plug for the license plate lights. The new harness did not have the correct plug, so we cut the plug off, and replaced it with the plug from the harness that came with the Flex. The most time consuming task was cutting the plastic cover off the plastic bumper hitch access area. I did not get the template of the Black Plastic Trim that came with the hitch so we had to mark-n-cut as we held and estimated where to make all the cuts. It fits well enough. ("Unknown Dog" bturnip) on another blog shows some nice step by step photos when he put the hitch on a 2011...a little different but very helpful too. Based on comments from others, looks like we'll get a Tekonsha Prodigy P3 Trailer Brake Controller w/wire connector. It seems it is a plug-n-go set up.

No oil cooler yet. The ford dealer can't find the part in his computer ! Do you have any part numbers for the oil cooler & accompanying hoses/hook-ups ?



#12 OFFLINE   ACDII

ACDII

    New Flex Member

  • Ford Flex Members
  • 328 posts
  • Region:Decline

Posted 09 May 2013 - 06:48 AM

Hi, Try these part numbers and see what they come up with. 

 

AT4Z-6881-A Adaptor 393667
8A8Z-6A642-A Oil Coo 369764
8A8Z-8075-A Hose AS 373189
-W503283-S437 x 4 Bolt - 827132
-W503277-S437 x 4 Bolt - 535788
8A8Z-8286-A Hose 373188

 

The template for the trim piece is on the last page of the installation manual, surprised it wasnt on there. 



#13 OFFLINE   Betty2

Betty2

    New Flex Member

  • Ford Flex Members
  • 11 posts
  • Region:U.S. Southern Plains
  • Location:Texas
  • Current Vehicle:2013 Limited

Posted 10 May 2013 - 03:33 AM

WOW ! Thanks! I suspect that since our Flex  did not come with the tow package the parts guy can't find these parts when he enters the VIN#....that seems to be his M.O.  Funny, the hitch came in a box seen in similar photos on the "unknown dog" blog, but no instructions....and come to think of it the black plastic trimm was in an open clear plastic bag, which is probably where te instructions would be. Anyway, today we get the break controller & WD hitch and test drive!  Based on a little investigation, It looks like I am going to use AMSOIL oils & filters too. Still thinking about the transmission oil, though.



#14 OFFLINE   Betty2

Betty2

    New Flex Member

  • Ford Flex Members
  • 11 posts
  • Region:U.S. Southern Plains
  • Location:Texas
  • Current Vehicle:2013 Limited

Posted 10 May 2013 - 03:39 AM

Oh yea, check out the site "ournewrv.com" ....towing-with-the-ford-flex This guy has a nice towing eval. Very applicable trailer maxed-out-trailer-size/weight set up and resutling  performance.



#15 OFFLINE   ACDII

ACDII

    New Flex Member

  • Ford Flex Members
  • 328 posts
  • Region:Decline

Posted 11 May 2013 - 04:58 PM

I got my hitch setup today and pulled the trailer for the first time. You can tell you have a trailer back there, but the Flex pulls it easy.

 

936685_540538779321594_2089189435_n.jpg

 

The trailer makes the Flex look tiny, but the original tow vehicle was a 97 Explorer.



#16 OFFLINE   Betty2

Betty2

    New Flex Member

  • Ford Flex Members
  • 11 posts
  • Region:U.S. Southern Plains
  • Location:Texas
  • Current Vehicle:2013 Limited

Posted 13 May 2013 - 07:24 PM

Nice !  We towed our camper for practice on Friday before I added the WD hitch and after. A huge difference in feel and control. The WD hitch is a must !  (Our set-up is almost exactly as pictured in the Ournewrv.com site) . The brake control we eventually purchased has a gain control & a manual overide slide control...common items seen in catalogs. It was kinda fun to adjust it too, and it works well. And yes the Flex pulls nicely, it just takes a few moments longer to get up to 55-60 mph, (as compared to a F-150) but I can deal with that. ....We changed oil to the highest grade of AMSOIL, 100% synthetic. Odered oil cooler parts,

BUT I am not certain that my radiator (2013 Non EB Flex Limited 3.5L V6 Cyclone TIVCT) has the correct fittings to attached the hoses. The build sheet shows "Coolant Radiator ID: BA83-8005-BB". The Ford parts dealer said the radiator that comes with a tow package is DA8Z-8005 B....but I'm not certain he found a Flex tow package on his computer.  ....Any thoughts here ? Do you expect all 2013 models (EB & NonEB) to have a radiator ready-fitted to attached the hoses ?



#17 OFFLINE   ACDII

ACDII

    New Flex Member

  • Ford Flex Members
  • 328 posts
  • Region:Decline

Posted 15 May 2013 - 03:54 PM

I had my parts guy look up radiators for the tow and non tow, the NA like yours has only 1 radiator, the Ecoboost shows 2. There is a size difference on the Ecoboost models only.



#18 OFFLINE   masterpilotguy

masterpilotguy

    New Flex Member

  • Ford Flex Members
  • 6 posts
  • Region:U.S. Northern Plains
  • Location:Olathe, KS
  • Current Vehicle:2013 Ford Flex SEL

Posted 15 October 2013 - 01:45 PM

So, has anyone done this on an SEL model yet?  I just ordered the 3 parts listed above hoping that will be enough for me as well, but I won't be surprised if it isn't.  I figured I would need at least those three parts anyway, and possibly more.  I am going to start with the hitch so I can haul my small utility trailer, then in the not too distant future plan on adding the oil cooler for the full 4500lb tow rating.


Edited by masterpilotguy, 23 October 2013 - 10:20 AM.


#19 OFFLINE   robertlane

robertlane

    Flex Fan

  • Moderator
  • Pip
  • 199 posts
  • Region:U.S. Great Lakes
  • Location:Dearborn
  • Current Vehicle:Shelby Mustang

Posted 15 October 2013 - 02:30 PM

Not sure how the SEL would be any different?



#20 OFFLINE   masterpilotguy

masterpilotguy

    New Flex Member

  • Ford Flex Members
  • 6 posts
  • Region:U.S. Northern Plains
  • Location:Olathe, KS
  • Current Vehicle:2013 Ford Flex SEL

Posted 16 October 2013 - 10:12 AM

I am mostly concerned about the wiring harnesses, I have read some posts where people have done this on older models (2010) and the wiring for the 7pin was not there and they had to add the trailer wiring isolation module.  I am hoping that I don't have to do that part as it would be so much easier if all the wiring is already there.  When I get the parts in, I will start the job and I guess I will find out.








Custom Search




Privacy Policy Terms of Service ·